Hang on, you might be thinking. – which means “mix mix” in Tagalog – is technically not a dessert. And you’re right.
“Halo-halo is a merienda, which is like a morning or afternoon snack," explains , author of Filipino cookbooks and the recently published . "It can be everything from something sweet and dessert-like to noodles – like a kind of supper.”
If the term is new to you too, let’s rejoice together, for now we have a name for snacking: it’s merienda time.
Halo-halo is a merienda because most people have it in the afternoon to cool down from the intense constant tropical heat, says Newman.
This icy treat was brought to the Philippines by Japanese migrants and is descended from the Japanese dessert , a colourful shaved ice dessert sweetened with syrup and condensed or evaporated milk.
It’s become well and truly a Filipino dish through the different types of mix-ins that are added to the base of shaved ice.
Candied beans are a classic addition, as are jelly cubes, saba (a sweetened preserved banana), sweetened preserved coconut, leche flan (Filipino crème caramel), ube jam (a sweet paste made out of purple yam), and fresh fruits.
“It can look like a kaleidoscope of colours,” says Newman.
Yasmin Newman’s daughter experiencing the joys of ube ice-cream in her halo-halo. Source: Yasmin Newman
Condensed milk and evaporated milk go on top of the mix-ins, and there are countless mix-in combinations to choose from.
“One halo-halo that I really like is from a chain restaurant in the Philippines that has leche flan and saba, and it’s kind of got these really caramelly undertones,” she says.
“Another popular type is served in a young coconut shell and it’s much more fruit-laden. Then there are ones with ice-cream, which can be topped with pounded rice flakes.”
What the writer loves about halo-halo is how much it reminds her of the Philippines.
“It’s almost like a daily activity, and I haven’t met a Filipino who doesn’t love halo-halo. After school, you’ll see throngs of kids having halo-halo. And I just recall my trips back to the Philippines with my family and that would be something we’d always kind of start talking about in the morning and hang out for.”
Many of those trips involved hot-afternoon respites at the chain restaurant . Newman remembers sitting with her family and watching the light come in through the window and feeling the cool of the air conditioning – a halo-halo in front of her.
“It’s just so refreshing," she says. "It’s cold, and slightly creamy and not too heavy. And those fruity flavours are also very satisfying. So I guess it’s a kind of quintessential Filipino activity, not just a dish.”
“It can look like a kaleidoscope of colours.” Source: Feast magazine
With all the mixing, I wondered if there are any halo-halo combinations that are… wrong? Is there such a thing as the wrong combination of things to mix?
“No!” says Newman. “In halo-halo, there’s a kind of 'no rules apply' approach. If you like it super beany, then you can have more beans in your version.”
“Filipino food in general is for the palate of the eater. So there are guidelines that inform a dish, but it’s really not about a chef dictating how it should be," she says. "It’s kind of referred to as a collaboration between the cook and the eater, so the cook sets the tone but the eater finetunes it to their own palate. And we do that with savoury dishes with dipping sauces where you customise everything yourself.”
In halo-halo, there’s a kind of 'no rules apply' approach.
I love the friendliness of this approach, and feel empowered to have a go at doing some mixing of my own.
For first-timers, Newman has some tips:
- If you want to source classic Filipino flavours like the sweetened preserved coconuts, ube jam, and candied beans, head to your local Filipino or Asian food store.
- You’ll want a good ice shaver to get that snowflake effect. Putting ice in a blender won’t work, because the heat from the blender will melt the ice. Newman uses a kids’ ice shaver and says it’s one of the best appliances for the job, because it’s so easy to use. You can also try using -style ice, like the watermelon ice recipe in Newman's cookbook, .
- Serve your halo-halo in anything you like. It often comes in an ice-cream sundae glass, but you can use an ice-cream bowl, young coconut, even a hollowed-out baby pineapple as a vessel.
I’m feeling a “no rules apply” merienda is just around the corner.
Halo-halo shaved ice drink
Serves 4
This version is inspired by a resort-style halo-halo, which is served in a young coconut instead of a tall sundae glass.
Ingredients
- 10 g green rice flakes (pinipig)
- 4 young coconuts (buko) (optional)
- 1 bottle saba (cooking) bananas in syrup (saging saba)
- 1 bottle jackfruit in syrup (langka)
- 1 bottle coconut gel (nata de coco)
- 6 cups shaved ice, plus extra to serve
- 500 ml (2 cups) evaporated milk
- 250 g condensed milk
- 1 scoop mango ice-cream, to serve
Jelly (gulaman)
- 220 g caster sugar
- 2 tsp agar-agar powder
- Red or green food colouring (optional)
Method
- To make the jelly (gulaman), place the sugar and 750 ml water in a saucepan and stir over low heat until the sugar dissolves.
- Whisk in the agar-agar powder until it dissolves, then bring to a boil over high heat.
- Reduce the heat to medium and cook for 3 minutes, then stir in the food colouring, if using.
- Transfer the mixture to a 20 cm square baking tin and stand at room temperature for 2 hours, or until firm. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
- To toast the rice flakes, place them in a small frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook for 8–10 minutes, flipping them in the pan, until golden and toasted. Immediately transfer to a bowl and cool.
- Open the young coconuts, leaving the tops attached to the shells, if desired. Pour out the young coconut water and reserve it for another use.
- Place a heaped tablespoon each of banana, jackfruit, coconut gel and jelly in each shell or serving glass. Any leftover reserved fruits and jelly will keep in the refrigerator for future halo-halos.
- Fill a shell or glass with shaved ice, then pour over 125 ml of evaporated milk and 60 ml of condensed milk.
- Top with more shaved ice to extend just above the rim, if necessary. Repeat with the remaining shells, ice and milks.
- Top with a scoop of mango ice-cream and scatter with the toasted rice flakes. Serve with a big spoon for people to mix everything together.
Note
• The ingredients can be found at Filipino grocery stores.
• The ingredients can be found at Filipino grocery stores.
'The Mostest' is an SBS Food column that sees comedian and food enthusiast Jennifer Wong be your guide. Read as she goes searching to uncover who we are as cooks, who we are as eaters and what we enjoy most. Expect history, incredible tips, must-make recipes and anecdotes all surrounded by food a. Love the story? Follow the author here: Twitter , Facebook , Instagram .
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