Don’t have a spare $300,000-plus dollars to splash out on a bottle of Bordeaux? Good news, you don’t have to. For around $15 – rather a more reasonable price for those of us who aren't billionaire wine investors! – you can get a very enjoyable taste of one of the world’s most prestigious wine regions.
That staggering record price was for a 1869 bottle of Lafite Rothschild - one of the great Bordeaux estates, and especially popular in Asia - in a wine auction in Hong Kong in 2010.
Bordeaux, in south-west France, is one of the most famous wine regions in the word and even a bottle from a recent vintage can sell for .
As Russell Crowe says in Red Obsession (a fascinating documentary about the history and changing nature of the French wine industry, and Bordeaux in particular), “For centuries, Bordeaux has commanded an almost mythical status in the world of wine, beguiling kings, emperors and dictators alike. While its survival is dependent on the capricious nature of weather, its prosperity has always been tied to the shifting fortunes of global economies. As powerful nations rise and fall, so does the fate of this place.”
But you don’t have to be royal, a dictator, or a billionaire wine collector to get a taste of Bordeaux (although you might want one after watching Red Obsession! Crowe narrates a tale that really gets to the heart of why the region is so well-regarded, and how the Bordeaux winemakers are dealing with the intense interest of Asian wine lovers, whose passion has helped drive prices to record highs.)
Red Obsession looks at the love affair between wine collectors and top-flight French reds. Source: SBS Movies
At Sydney’s intimate , launched by French natives Ludo Geyer and Xavier Huitorel in June 2010, the carte des vins includes the 2014 available by the glass. At $14, that’s a very affordable way to savour the flavour of this fabled region.
“We have sold this wine for many years. It is a beautiful blend of merlot and cabernet franc that is well structured, very smooth and offers incredible value. As its value is so good, it's perfect to sell by the glass,” Huitorel tells SBS.
But how do they maintain quality, given an opened bottle of wine will deteriorate after a while?
Xavier Huitorel at Bistro Papillon Source: Bistro Papillon
“In France, wine is part of the meal. Our customers almost always order wine to savour with their meal. We sell so many wines by the glass! The turnover is incredible, We also store the wine carefully to ensure perfect quality.”
Other restaurants use special bottle closure or wine extraction systems, such as , to serve wine by the glass while maintaining quality.
“The use of Coravin means that venues can access high end bottles less frequently without fear of deterioration. An example would be Loic [head sommelier Loic Avril] and his team at whom have an enviable array of wines by the glass under this preservation and service tool including some of Bordeaux’ classified treasures,” says , an award-winning sommelier and wine consultant, and founding partner at Melbourne’s , a French-leaning bistro and wine store, when we chat to him about Bordeaux and wines by the glass.
“At the Recreation we have poured some cru Bourgeois in the past as well as AC Bordeaux wines. As cooler weather arrives I plan to list one by the glass with richer roast lamb dishes which I find pair very well,” Protheroe says.
His other tip for getting a taste of Bordeaux? Look past the marquee Chateaux. “While the price of Classified growths continues to sky rocket, cru Bourgeois and generic appellation Bordeaux wines still offer good typicity and value. In general the recent vintages have been of consistent quality from lesser and more prized appellations.” The classified growths he’s referring to – the crus classés – are part of a Bordeaux classification system introduced under Napoleon III in 1855. But as says, “It should be emphasised that a wine or appellation can still be outstanding even if it is not a part of these classifications!”
“The region makes wines that stand the test of time,” says Huiterol. “I grew up a couple of hours north of Bordeaux, so I was fortunate enough to sample the wines of the region often.”
While French wines don’t dominate Australian wine menus now to the degree they did in the past, you can still find passionate sommeliers putting together clever lists that let you sample a taste of regions such as Bordeaux. And heading into winter, expect to spot more places putting a good French red on by the glass, too.
