This Indigenous cafe is making an unapologetic statement with its food

A groundbreaking Aboriginal women-led social enterprise outlet in Nowra, NSW, is showcasing Indigenous flavours to great effect and winning awards.

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Three of the team members at Blak Cede cafe - (L-R) Lisa Jones-Bell, Jess Williams and Kayla Timbery-McLeod. Credit: Alicia and Callum Birch / Smiling Sun

Take a seat at a footpath table outside Nowra’s Blak Cede café and it’s quickly clear how very popular this groundbreaking Indigenous-run eatery is.

Nowra, on the New South Wales south coast, is a thriving regional city, not a country town, but Blak Cede has that feel of a small-town community favourite.

, to give it it’s full and carefully chosen title, opened in April this year, a women-led social enterprise established by the South Coast Women’s Health and Wellbeing Aboriginal Corporation, to provide training and employment opportunities to Aboriginal women from the Shoalhaven area, while highlighting Aboriginal knowledge, beliefs and experiences.
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Nowra's Blak Cede cafe. Credit: Alicia and Callum Birch / Smiling Sun
They explain their ethos saying, “Blak Cede is part of Waminda’s ongoing initiative to challenge and disrupt practices, beliefs and barriers that discriminate and marginalise Aboriginal peoples and communities and ensure Aboriginal voices are heard and supported. Waminda and Blak Cede will truth tell about our history.

"For example, we do not have beef on the menu as a statement about the colonial origins of the beef industry, which was forged on the backs of Aboriginal peoples right across this land. Cattle have desecrated the Australian environment and they have a massive carbon footprint, so we chose to support other industries which are more sustainable, environmentally less impactful, traditional and local. As we have created a space for truth telling, it is an opportunity for people to engage in active anti-racism and imperfect ally work.”

An award-winning cafe on the South Coast

Blak Cede has won several awards, including a regional NAIDOC Award and just this month, best coffee in the Shoalhaven. And only six months in, the café is so popular that plans are underway to expand into a next-door shop.

Café manager Melanie Williams, from the Wreck Bay Aboriginal community in the Yuin nation, who has been working at Blak Cede since it opened, says the welcome from the Nowra community has been fantastic.

“We created Blak Cede to empower young Koori women from the Shoalhaven area on the south coast to lead self-determined lives. We created this beautiful welcoming space for not only our Aboriginal community, but the wider community also. And it has been an amazing journey.”
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Maara cakes at Blak Cede. Credit: Katie Rivers / Visit Shoalhaven
The is strong on native ingredients and products from Aboriginal businesses, from wattle seed banana bread to braised kangaroo pies, and to maara cakes (fish cakes) served with finger lime mayo and a garden salad with pepperberry dressing. Many of the dishes feature words from the region’s Dharawal and Dhurga language groups. Some dishes on the menu feature items also for sale in the cafe, such as the Deadly Medley yoghurt bowl featuring a nutty chocolate and chocolate granola made by local First Nations women. Other products available to take home in the cafe include packets of gadhu citrus salt with finger lime and lemon myrtle, and a Rocky Chocky rocky road with Davidson plum

Even the coffee blend was carefully created, working with supplier Daily Grind, to match the menu.

“We have an extremely passionate young Koori man from the community who's leading the barista side of things, teaching these young women the right way. And people are willing to wait [when it’s busy] because they know what they’re going to get. It's a nice, beautiful, strong coffee, so it complements the Indigenous flavours as well, it was purposely done,” Williams explains.

Supporting other Indigenous businesses

The cafe also makes it a point to collaborate with other Indigenous-owned businesses, such as Yaru Water, a social enterprise based in Uki, New Soth Wales that supplies their mineral water.

“We are proud to stock their water range as they are the first Indigenous water company and a social enterprise that tells an important cultural story, whilst creating better health outcomes for Indigenous communities via the Yaru Foundation,” the team tells us. “Because we limit the use of sugar in our cafe as a response to the detrimental impact sugar has had on our communities since its introduction, such as diabetes and heart disease, among so many other health issues – the flavoured sparkling mineral waters are a popular alternative to soft drinks. We also support many other Blak businesses, such as Native Botanicals, Native Foodways, LORE Australia, and Koori artists and jewellery makes.”
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Inside Nowra's Blak Cede cafe. Credit: Alicia and Callum Birch / Smiling Sun
The physical space features First Nations talent too, from the beautiful woven hanging light pendants created by Gamilaroi women working with Tamworth-based enterprise and the timber furniture by to the music being played. Their playlists feature deadly Blak artists, ranging from upcoming local Koori artists such as to globally recognised artists such as the late Uncle Archie Roach.

“We often get comments from mob walking past the cafe of how proud they feel when they hear the music playing from the outdoor speakers,” Williams says.

Good music, a welcoming space, great food, a supportive workplace for women, and a mission to champion other Indigenous businesses - Blak Cede has so many layers within its identity. And with the planned expansion, there will be more room for visitors to sit down to cafe's delicious, nourishing nyully (‘food’ in the Dharawal language).


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5 min read
Published 28 October 2024 10:58am
Updated 28 October 2024 11:57am
By Kylie Walker
Source: SBS


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