When faced with a counter of unpronounceable, furry-looking cheeses, it's no wonder we reach for our tried and true, be it an oozy d'Affinois or dependable BabyBel. But it's time your cheese choices grew up. That doesn't mean you have to give up the comforting creaminess of Laughing Cow, say, just trade up. Whether you're stuck on brie, hooked on blue, or venturing into goat's milk territory, we've got the upgrade for you.
Don't be a rookie and treat your cheese board as a buffet, either. It should be a focused offering of one or two cheeses — a single wheel of cheese the size of a hubcap says volumes about your generousity as a host (after all, isn't that why you're throwing a shindig?). Combined with a killer complementary condiment and an impeccable wine match, you've paved the way for you and your guests to have a cheese epiphany.
If you're branching out from Kraft singles, then try...
La Tur One mouthful is all it takes to fall under the spell of this cheese with its impossibly rich flavour and dense, fudgy texture. Made with a blend of cow, sheep and goat’s milk, La Tur is what's referred to as a robiola — a small, soft cheese originating from the Italian region of Piedmont. The combination of the three types of milk creates an exponential level of creaminess and a divine flavour that is complemented by a smooth, nutty note from the thin, white mould rind. Its low acidity means La Tur is very wine friendly.
Wine match Picture yourself in the Italian Dolomites region with a crisp, dry, elegant rosé made from the distinctive local red variety lagrein. Cheese plate on your right, snow-capped mountains on your left. Rosé, or rosato in this part of the world, is often a killer food-matching choice. Often overlooked as a cheese partner, the varietal’s touch of tannin, succulent red fruit notes, and slight acidity mean it’s a dream paired with goat and mixed milk cheeses, which are also in season during warmer months. My pick is the Castel Firmian Lagrein Rosato because its acidity cuts through the fat, and the dry, almost savoury notes underneath the pretty red fruit aromatics perfectly highlight the complex, earthy flavours of the cheeses without overpowering them.
If you're stuck in a brie rut, then try...
Piacentinu This cheese embodies the distinctive flavours of Mediterranean cuisine. Made in central Sicily, it’s a firm sheep’s milk cheese enriched with whole black peppercorns and saffron. The gentle warmth of the spices is softened by the smooth, buttery notes of the sheep’s milk, creating a perfectly balanced savouriness that plays off the aromatic notes in white wine, such as Vermentino, and won’t overpower other cheeses on the board.
Buffalo brie If you enjoy milder styles of brie and are looking to experiment a little, try one made with buffalo milk. Most famously transformed into mozzarella, buffalo milk can be made into any style of cheese, and because it’s higher in solids than cow’s milk, it offers a unique fullness of flavour that lingers on the palate and manages to hold its own against medium-bodied wines. Buffalo brie has a silky-smooth, custard-like texture and an inviting flavour, which reveals something new with each bite – a hint of grassiness here, a touch of sweetness there.
Serve with The sweet, spicy notes in this highlights the rich, buttery notes in these cheeses.
Wine match It’s a common misconception that cheese pairs best with red wine. White varietals, with their fruity, crisp, herbaceous notes can also be perfect cheese partners. Vermentino, a Sicilian variety that has found a happy new home in Australia, is the rock star choice for these cheese, especially a local producer because it has the spice to match the Piacentinu and the richness and texture to go toe to toe with the brie. The Billy Button ‘Versatile’ Vermentino 2014, from the super talented Jo Marsh in Victoria’s Alpine Valleys. There were only 70 dozen of this textural citrus, stone fruit and spice-laden beauty made — if you see it, grab it!
If you lust for a cheese with age, then try...
Comté AOP For serious connoisseurs, Comté represents the pinnacle of French cheese enjoyment. The 40 kg wheels are made by hand with raw milk from small, local dairies in the lush Franche-Comté region. Held to exacting appellation controls, every batch is taste-tested for quality. For this pairing, seek out 18-24 month Comté that has a complex flavour of roasted nuts, fresh cream, mushrooms fried in butter and fresh herbs with a smooth, condensed texture.
Truffled brie Pure indulgence in every lustful mouthful. A heady combination of creamy, buttery, truffle-y, yeasty deliciousness. You’ll be able to identify it in cheese shops by the line of black running through the middle of the brie. Or, make your own by carefully slicing a small wheel of brie through the centre (like a cake) and spreading a generous layer of shaved truffle mixed with a little mascarpone on the bottom half. Sandwich the two halves and refrigerate overnight to allow the flavours to get in bed together.
Serve with An elegant accompaniment. Try your hand at these and .
Wine match Two regal cheeses with big flavours demand something punchy with equally rich heritage. Enter sparkling shiraz, one of Australia’s vinous gifts to the world. The best, like the Peter Lehmann ‘Black Queen’ Sparkling Shiraz 2009 from the Barossa Valley, are made like serious red wines before undergoing secondary fermentation and ageing on yeast lees in the bottle, resulting in explosions of black cherry plums, blueberries and dark chocolate with serious depth and concentration. These protein-rich cheeses tame the tannins and prove a smooth, velvety match.
If you like a salty and sweet combo, then try...
Goat’s milk blue vein While goat’s milk blues can still pack a punch, they often have a more refined, graceful finish than their cow’s milk cousins. The fresh citrus-like hints in the goat’s milk seem to lighten the overall experience and provide a nice bright contrast for all those salty, spicy flavours in the rich veins of blue mould, which play off the sweet, syrupy flavours in this dessert sherry perfectly.
Aged Manchego DO A classic sheep’s milk Spanish cheese, Manchego can be enjoyed at all ages, but for after-dinner, look for something that’s 12-18 months old. During this extended maturation, a subtle complexity develops with notes of roasted Brazil nuts, lanolin, olives, green herbs and salted butter, with an ever so slight bite to finish. The texture becomes firm, slightly grainy and a little brittle, which allows the cheese to linger on the palate just that little bit longer.
Serve with Continue the sweet theme, pairing the cheeses with glazed nuts, panforte and sesame crackers or .
Wine match When faced with these kinds of bolshie cheeses, with their well-developed savoury/spicy flavours, the best advice is to go for contrast in your wine pairing, so choose a sweet, fortified wine with raisin, honey and dried fruit notes. If you’ve never tried Pedro Ximénez, or PX for short, then you just haven’t lived. Dark, intense, unctuous, intensely sweet and so thick it will stain your glass. With dried fruit, chocolate, malt and toffee flavours, the Sanchez Romate ‘Cardenal Cisneros’ PX has the sweetness to match the salty tang of the blue, and the complementary flavours to lift the Manchego to a whole new level. Aged for over 30 years in a solera blending system, this is a truly unique fortified wine from a great producer in Southern Spain’s Jerez region.
For more expert cheese advice from Alison Brien, visit . Illustrations by Tanya Cooper.
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