The Melbourne ‘invasion’ continues this month hot off the heels of Dainty Sichuan’s World Square opening, with Rockpool Dining Group’s landing in Sydney.
Pulling up in style (we wouldn’t expect anything less from Neil Perry, Aussie star chef and the group’s director of culinary and brands), the glam Italian fine-diner has taken over three levels of the Harry Seidler-designed Grosvenor Place on Harrington Street.
The focus in Sydney has migrated to the coast with a large raw (crudo) contingent, as Perry - a champion of Aussie produce - applies his magic pointers to the menu.
“Our seafood crudo section is not only a point of difference but an element of the menu that will grow,” Perry tells SBS. “Our scampi crudo with blood orange, mint and pistachios is a nod to all those suburban Italian restaurants that feature scampi.”
Raw plates (crudo) like this Yellofin tuna salsa verde are a menu highlight.(Jason Loucas) Source: Rockpool Dining Group
The space may be big and grand – seating 90 in the main room, 60 on the outdoor terrace, 50 on the mezzanine level and another 28 at a white terrazzo bar – but the menu isn’t all bells and micro thistles. Milk-fed Torello Rosé veal from Cowra in NSW is a signature, used in no less than five dishes, but equally exciting are the six pizzettes on the all-day bar menu, including one with white clam and clam juice.
“The base is made from 100 per cent sourdough, which has been aged for at least four days. It takes a bit of work but results in a perfect Neapolitan-style crust that’s crisp on the outside and has a good chew, without being tough,” Perry says.
The drinks sport the same level of conviviality with plenty of fun riffs on classics: there’s a Cold Drip Café Americano (this is Sydney, after all), a slushie Sgroppino and five types of Negroni. Grappa, Italian wines, local beers and about 30 gins are also there to brighten up aperitivo hour.
Sourdough pizzettes are made the traditional Neapolitan way at Sydney's Rosetta. (Jason Loucas) Source: Jason Loucas
Other familiar faces peek out from the menu but in the name of sustainability, they’re not made with the usual cuts. The cold classic of vitello tonnato, for example, uses girello – the eye of silverside.
“This cut tends to be very lean and dry," Perry explains, "so we poach and thinly slice it and layer it with a mayonnaise combining extra virgin olive oil, capers, anchovies and tuna for a few days so it soaks up the fat from the mayonnaise.”
The veal’s neck is used in polpetti and bolognese, the shanks in an osso bucco risotto and cotoletta (breaded cutlet) is made with the loin.
Cold Drip Café Americano, negronis, Italian wines and slushy Sgroppini keep things upbeat. Source: Jason Loucas
“It’s [the veal] reared with a focus on high animal welfare and sustainability and we’re using as many cuts as possible in tribute to the amazing produce that it is.”
is open for lunch Monday-Sunday, 12-3pm. Dinner Monday-Saturday, 6-11pm, Sunday 6-10pm. All day dining is available at the Terrace Bar & Mezzanine Bar.118 Harrington Street, Sydney
