— Discover more in Gary Barlow's Wine Tour: South Africa, 7.30pm Fridays from 28 February on SBS Food, with episodes streaming after they air —
When was the last time you enjoyed a glass of South African wine? If you’re like many Australians, you might have a hard time answering that. While we proudly support our local wines, which dominate the market, when it comes to foreign options most of us tend to gravitate toward familiar favourites from New Zealand, France or Italy.
But if South African wines haven’t yet made their way onto your radar, it’s time to change that.
South African Wine : A diverse terroir
From dramatic coastlines to towering mountain ranges and fertile valleys, South Africa has it all. This unique combination of soils, landscapes, and climates plays a pivotal role in producing wines with remarkable depth.
South African winemaker puts it simply: “This is what gives our wines their complexity, their point of difference. This is what gives our wines all these nuances.”
South African winemaker Carmen Stevens Credit: Celine Da Camara
Old world meets new world
With a wine history dating back over 360 years, . During the Apartheid era, sanctions isolated the industry, stalling its growth. But following the end of Apartheid in 1994, a fresh wave of energy revived the sector.
“There was a lot of hope, and a lot of renewed vigour. There's a younger generation coming through who has travelled and seen the new world techniques, and they've taken them back to South Africa,” says Ross Anderson, co-founder of , a leading Australian importer of South African wine. “It has new world characteristics; fresh and vibrant, ripe fruit character. And then it's underpinned by the old world, so classic structure, minerality, and boldness. It sits in between.”
For wine director Amanda Yallop, South African wine is without peer: “An old-world country producing wine through a new world lens. Offering a cracking combination of moderate weight and body found in old world wine and dazzling fruit more readily found in new world styles.”
And while the South African wine industry is technology-driven, grapes are often still hand-picked, which allows for the selection of the best, perfectly ripe grapes.
A new wave of winemakers
In recent years, South African winemakers have increasingly focused on sustainability, environmental responsibility and minimal intervention. “You’ll see that come through in the fruit,” says Anderson.
Carmen Stevens, believed to be the first Black person to formally study wine in South Africa, is proud of the industry’s forward-thinking spirit. "Winemakers in South Africa are risk-takers who love to experiment,” she says.
Despite being part of an industry that remains predominantly white and male, Stevens remains optimistic, particularly after government initiatives have helped secure land and establish their brands.
From earthy reds to salty whites
, South Africa’s signature red grape, was created in 1925 by crossing pinot noir for elegance with cinsault for resilience. Traditional pinotage is often divisive, known for its strong earthy and smoky notes. Modern pinotage, made with more finesse, is experiencing a renaissance. “Depending on where it's grown, it can either be very light in expression or it can be this deep, dark wine,” says Stevens.
An iconic pinotage vintage from Kanonkop in in Stellenbosch Credit: Ross Anderson
South Africa also produces outstanding cabernet sauvignon, often in Bordeaux-style blends, as well as shiraz, rounding out some of the country’s most beloved reds.
On the white wine front, South African wines are gaining serious attention. “I think some of the best wines in South Africa would be white blends or chenin blanc. There’s a real focus on capturing the terroir of every site. Some almost have a saline characteristic to them,” says Truyts.
Chenin blanc, also known locally as steen, is South Africa’s most widely planted grape. It outpaces even its native Loire Valley in terms of vineyard acreage. With a diverse range of styles, from crisp and refreshing to rich and complex, it’s a standout.
Other whites, like sauvignon blanc and chardonnay, are also becoming increasingly popular.
“There’s been a lot of recent noise about the increased quality of their red wines which I’d agree with though I’m a super fan of their dry, salty white wines where chenin blanc is the star,” says Yallop. “Texture is a big thing for me, on this, South African wines deliver in abundance.”
Try a South African wine
Stevens invites Australians to experience South Africa’s wines firsthand.
“We have the most amazing views in a very small radius. We have the sea, the best mountains in the world, the . You go a little deeper, you get wildlife. We have amazing, amazing wines. And with that, some of the best food and chefs that you can get. If you are tourists in South Africa, you can experience the best food, the best wine and he best accommodation for very little money because our currency is not the strongest,” she says.
Simonsberg, a mountain located between the towns of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschhoek in South Africa. Credit: Ross Anderson
Here are some bottles to kickstart your South African wine adventure:
Ross Anderson’s picks:
-Stellenrust Barrel fermented Chenin Blanc 2022
-Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage 2022
-Kanonkop Estate Pinotage 2022
-Meerlust Red 2021
-Meerlust Rubicon 2021
Amanda Yallop’s vineyards recommendations:
-Naudé Wines, Stellenbosch
-Sadie Family Wines, Swartland.
-Mullineux, Swartland
-Hamilton Russell Vineyards, Western Cape
Discover more from South Africa in Food Trail: South Africa, 7.30pm Sundays on SBS Food, and at SBS On Demand:
Stream free On Demand
Food Trail: South Africa
