Jo Barrett, co-executive chef (and pastry maestro) at Oakridge, Yarra Valley, Victoria
On hating pastry (at the start)
It’s true, I hated pastry and avoided it at all costs! It bugged me that I didn’t like it and wasn’t good at it. But I decided if I wanted to run a kitchen, I needed to know everything, so I worked in a bakery and studied pâtisserie. Now, I love how pastry has an answer for everything – but within all the technique, it’s extremely creative.
On confidence
My whole cooking career has been very positive, with both males and female pushing me to do my best. But as a female in a male-dominated industry, I know from experience how intimidating it can be. Women tend to want things to be perfect before giving it a crack, so we need to encourage women to have that confidence to just go for it.
My whole cooking career has been very positive, with both males and female pushing me to do my best. But as a female in a male-dominated industry, I know from experience how intimidating it can be. Women tend to want things to be perfect before giving it a crack, so we need to encourage women to have that confidence to just go for it.
On mutual respect
The industry as a whole is such a good one to be in. The days of being competitive have disappeared and people aren’t scared to share their ideas. I think a lot of it comes down to respect for our producers. Before, you’d want to keep a great product to yourself, but you just weren’t doing the producer any justice.
The industry as a whole is such a good one to be in. The days of being competitive have disappeared and people aren’t scared to share their ideas. I think a lot of it comes down to respect for our producers. Before, you’d want to keep a great product to yourself, but you just weren’t doing the producer any justice.
On killer kinda-sweet creamy potato skins
My desserts are very produce-driven, textural and not very sweet. I tend to take what I’ve learned in savoury cooking and add sugar! We make chips from potatoes, but all the skin was going in the compost. Now, I cook them with cream, set with gelatine and whip into a really thick potato cream and serve it with blackberries and marmalade ice cream.
My desserts are very produce-driven, textural and not very sweet. I tend to take what I’ve learned in savoury cooking and add sugar! We make chips from potatoes, but all the skin was going in the compost. Now, I cook them with cream, set with gelatine and whip into a really thick potato cream and serve it with blackberries and marmalade ice cream.
Lauren Eldridge, head pastry chef at Van Haandel Group, Melbourne
On being a female in the industry
I think of myself as a pastry chef, not a female pastry chef. I think the label can often create a distinction, putting us back in a box instead of breaking it down. In saying that, it’s important to promote women. Society has instilled in many of us to be reserved. Without the promotion, nothing changes. I know I struggle with how best to tackle the subject, but I believe we have a responsibility to do it in the right way.
On amazing Australian pastry chefs (who just happen to be female)
That’s a heading I’d read! for one. She and I have similar styles and philosophies in terms of produce and sustainability. She’s leading the way for a lot of chefs. And . She’s the at in Sydney, but also trained as a pastry chef. Leading a kitchen is a hard job regardless of your gender.
On her new-age Neapolitan
I’d describe my style as focused and minimalist – I often only use two or three flavours in a dessert – and incorporate local and seasonal produce as much as possible. A new addition to the Stokehouse menu that I think typifies that is the Neapolitan, a take on the ice-cream of our childhood. I have incorporated some native Australian produce by using rosella flowers and I source all my chocolate from in Victoria – it’s some of the best chocolate I have ever tried!
Lauren Eldridge is making a difference with her pastries. Source: Lauren Eldridge
That’s a heading I’d read! for one. She and I have similar styles and philosophies in terms of produce and sustainability. She’s leading the way for a lot of chefs. And . She’s the at in Sydney, but also trained as a pastry chef. Leading a kitchen is a hard job regardless of your gender.
The chef's nostalgia-evoking dessert features Neapolitan chocolate mousse, native hibiscus sorbet and vanilla semifreddo. Source: Lauren Eldridge
I’d describe my style as focused and minimalist – I often only use two or three flavours in a dessert – and incorporate local and seasonal produce as much as possible. A new addition to the Stokehouse menu that I think typifies that is the Neapolitan, a take on the ice-cream of our childhood. I have incorporated some native Australian produce by using rosella flowers and I source all my chocolate from in Victoria – it’s some of the best chocolate I have ever tried!
I think of myself as a pastry chef, not a female pastry chef. I think the label can often create a distinction, putting us back in a box instead of breaking it down. In saying that, it’s important to promote women.
On sweet support
Pastry chefs are a minority within chefs, so we tend to stick together, female or male! I’ve definitely noticed a shift since I started eight years ago. There is an increase in supporting and pushing each other instead of seeing each other as competition, and it is a really great network that you can call upon for help. I think kitchen culture generally is changing. Personally, I have very helpful senior management at and an always supportive mentor in .
Pastry chefs are a minority within chefs, so we tend to stick together, female or male! I’ve definitely noticed a shift since I started eight years ago. There is an increase in supporting and pushing each other instead of seeing each other as competition, and it is a really great network that you can call upon for help. I think kitchen culture generally is changing. Personally, I have very helpful senior management at and an always supportive mentor in .
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Jaci Koludrovic, group pastry chef at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, The Dolphin Hotel and Bondi Beach Public Bar, Sydney
On the pull of pastry
There’s a shortage of staff in the pastry kitchen, so you can climb the ranks quickly, but the work is also more calm, delicate and creative. You get to work by yourself – we’re kind of the outcasts, in pastry! – but I see that as a good thing. Plus, I love all things sweet. I love making them, eating them and thinking about how I can make them even more delicious.
On inspiring females
I love the funky stuff that does and the intricate chocolate work of from the Lotus Group. Jo Barrett has such a natural approach to produce an amazing flavour pairing. , who I worked with a long time ago, hates being called a pastry chef, but is amazing.
Jaci Koludrovic is in charge of desserts, like the gold-dusted tiramisu, at Icebergs Dining Room and Bar. Source: Icebergs Dining Room and Bar
I love the funky stuff that does and the intricate chocolate work of from the Lotus Group. Jo Barrett has such a natural approach to produce an amazing flavour pairing. , who I worked with a long time ago, hates being called a pastry chef, but is amazing.
On luck, age and equality
I’m a bit older these days, so I get treated differently, but even as a younger chef, there was a real balance in the kitchen and every venue had females in senior roles. I’ve been really lucky, but I also believe that women can do anything that men can do.
On her epic tiramisu for two
We like to call it the "tiramisu treasure hunt". It looks like a large hockey puck (I make rustic desserts), but inside is everything from flourless chocolate cake, coffee meringue sticks and amaretti crumble to coffee jelly and marsala caramel. It’s enrobed with Pepe Saya mascarpone and marsala mousse, then dusted in cocoa and gold dust.
I’m a bit older these days, so I get treated differently, but even as a younger chef, there was a real balance in the kitchen and every venue had females in senior roles. I’ve been really lucky, but I also believe that women can do anything that men can do.
The tiramisu at Bondi Icebergs Dining Room and Bar is one of several remarkable desserts by Australia's notable pastry chefs. Source: Amber Melody
We like to call it the "tiramisu treasure hunt". It looks like a large hockey puck (I make rustic desserts), but inside is everything from flourless chocolate cake, coffee meringue sticks and amaretti crumble to coffee jelly and marsala caramel. It’s enrobed with Pepe Saya mascarpone and marsala mousse, then dusted in cocoa and gold dust.
In this column, , I scour bakeries, patisseries and dessert joints from around the world for the hottest sweet trends, up-and-coming ingredients and game-changing pastry techniques.
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