The chocolate maker bringing 'merveilleux' to Melbourne

Charles Lemai from Atypic Chocolate not only makes excellent chocolate, he is also bringing a unique cake from the north of France to Australia for the first time.

Charles Lemai from Atypic Chocolate

Source: Supplied by the South Melbourne Market

Like many young people, French-born Charles Lemai thought he would come to Australia to travel for a year. And like many young people, he’s still here today.

After working in patisserie in France and Australia for over 20 years, he has opened at the South Melbourne Market.

He turned to chocolate after a trip to Vietnam. “There was something missing," he tells SBS French.

"I wasn’t in love with patisserie like I used to be, I had done what I needed to do."

Drinking a coffee at Clement, a stone’s throw from his shop, he says, "After 20 years, I needed a new start."

That new start came when he visited Marou in Ho Chi Minh City.

The French chocolate maker embraces the 'bean to bar" method, meaning that they are involved in every step of the production, from the selection of the cacao beans to the finished product.

Atypic Chocolate at the South Melbourne Market

Back in Melbourne, Charles Lemai knew that the South Melbourne Market was looking for a chocolate maker so he jumped in.

“I explained that I didn’t want to do it like a traditional chocolate maker who only melts chocolate. I really wanted to make my own chocolate,” he says.
The French chocolate maker embraces the 'bean to bar' method, "I didn’t want to do it like a traditional chocolate maker who only melts chocolate. I really wanted to make my own chocolate.”
His pitch must have hit a chord because Atypic Chocolate opened at the South Melbourne Market in 2017. The kitchen and shop are small, only 42 square meters, but that’s where they manage to get everything done.

Through a large window, you can peek at Charles Lemai and his team sorting the cocoa beans, roasting them and passing them through several machines before they end up in a chocolate bar or pastry.
Atypic Chocolate
Atypic Chocolate (Photo supplied by the South Melbourne Market) Source: (Photo supplied by the South Melbourne Market)
He only uses non-refined and organic sugars, and doesn’t touch any artificial colourings. “One of the reasons I wanted to make my own chocolate, even though it’s more complicated, is that I would know exactly what’s in my chocolate and my pastries,” he explains.

Marvellous cake

If you’re lucky enough to go to the market on a day where they’re roasting the cacao beans, you'll be able to locate Atypic Chocolate by the intoxicating smell alone. 

Once there, you can pick between bars of dark, milk and white chocolate (Charles’ favourite is the 70 per cent 'Haiti'), as well as hot chocolate and 'mendiant,' a chocolate disk with nuts and dry fruits. And since Charles couldn’t totally let go of patisserie, you can also find rich brownies, cookies and -  a unique novelty in Australia -  the 'merveilleux.'
Merveilleux from Atypic Chocolate
Merveilleux from Atypic Chocolate Source: Supplied by the South Melbourne Market
'Merveilleux' (which means marvellous or wonderful in French) are a kind of cake invented in Belgium and popularised in the north of France.

They are made of two meringues covered in flavoured whipped cream and dusted in chocolate shavings. And - you guessed it, Atypic Chocolate makes its own chocolate whipped cream and shavings. Marvellous, indeed.

Listen Charles Lemai's full interview (in French) with SBS French below:

LISTEN TO
http://audiomedia-sbs.akamaized.net/french_170905_743578.mp3 image

http://audiomedia-sbs.akamaized.net/french_170905_743578.mp3

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3 min read
Published 5 December 2018 4:43pm
By Audrey Bourget


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