Key Points
- Mahshid Babzartabi, fleeing censorship, found community and comfort in Australia through cooking and Ramadan traditions like nazri.
- Ramadan memories are a source of inspiration for cook and entrepreneur Gilava Pour.
- The way Ramadan is observed in Iran and in the diaspora is shifting with time, an advocate explains.
Mahshid Babzartabi, a translator, cook and author, sought asylum in Australia after government censorship made her career untenable.
She left Iran as a refugee and was then forced to undertake a perilous journey by boat.
Once in Australia, she said her professional translator skills could not be transferred, but she supported herself thanks to a lifelong love of cooking.
"I learned to cook when I was just 10," she told SBS Persian.
"My stepmother would give me a boost with a little stool so I could reach the stove, and she patiently taught me."
Mahshid Babzartabi was taught to cook by her stepmother. Credit: Mahshid Babzartabi
Upon arriving in Australia, with her translation career stalled, she said she turned to the familiar comfort of food, starting by cooking for fellow refugees.
Months, even years, without a taste of home had left them longing.
"When I saw their faces light up at the sight of homemade ghormeh sabzi (herb stew), I found the energy to keep going," she recalled.
From those initial meals for fellow refugees, a thriving catering business emerged, followed by popular Persian cooking classes where she shared the heart of her culinary heritage.
This dedication to preserving her culture through food ultimately led to her cookbook, Taste of 1001 Nights, a fusion of authentic recipes and captivating stories.
Mahshid Babzartabi at her recent book launch. Credit: Mahshid Babzartabi
Babzartabi said she especially cherished Ramadan memories of family iftars.
"The most beautiful memory is sitting at the table with my two sons, who have now passed, sharing a meal. Even when they were little, they fasted just to have iftar with me. It's a memory I hold dear," she said.
For Babzartabi, the most meaningful part of Ramadan was nazri, a tradition she embraced immediately after leaving the D1 Darwin asylum seeker camp.
Nazri, a Persian term for a votive offering, is a cultural and religious practice designed to strengthen community bonds and express gratitude.
This often involves preparing and distributing food, especially during religious occasions like Ramadan and Muharram.
She cooked a large pot of tahchin, a beloved Persian dish of baked rice, meat and yoghurt, and shared it with her neighbours.
Mahshid Babzartabi. Credit: Mahshid Babzartabi
I was deeply homesick, and cooking and sharing food was the only way I could feel connected to home.Mahshid Babzartabi
Babzartabi said she wished for a stable future for the thousands of refugees who had been in limbo in Australia for over a decade without permanent residency or citizenship.
She said she hoped they achieved a normal life and the same blessing she received: a chance for a better life.
Ramadan in Iran
Ramadan in Iran started on 2 March and is projected to end on 30 March. As Islamic months are based on lunar observations, the precise start date can fluctuate slightly, depending on the visibility of the new moon.
During Ramadan, Iranian Muslims, like those globally, fast from dawn to sunset. Mosques see increased activity with congregational prayers and dedicated time for religious reflection and Quran recitation.
Driven by the spirit of Ramadan, many engage in charity by offering iftar to the less fortunate.
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What to know about Ramadan
The Islamic Republic enforces a public fast during Ramadan, restricting businesses like restaurants, cafes and street food vendors from serving customers during fasting hours.
Entertainment establishments are also subject to operational constraints during Ramadan.
While cinemas maintain their film screenings, their food and beverage outlets, including cafes and snack bars, remain closed until the cessation of fasting hours.
A typical iftar table featuring ash-e-reshteh, a Persian noodle soup. Credit: Exotic Bazaar
This applies to all individuals, irrespective of religious beliefs or fasting. Article 638 of the Islamic Penal Code enforces this, with penalties of 10 to 60 days in prison or up to 74 lashes.
Traditions 'shifting with time'
Rana Ebrahimi led the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees (UNHCR) in Iran as its first Iranian female head, then advocated for young refugees and migrants at the Multicultural Youth Advocacy Network.
She shared her perspective on Ramadan.
Rana Ebrahimi. Credit: Rana Ebrahimi
"Sharing iftar with friends in Australia helps recreate that sense of togetherness, but it’s not quite the same as the streets of Tehran, where food stalls would come alive after sunset and everyone seemed a little kinder, a little more patient."
Ebrahimi observed the supportive environment for Muslims in Australia during Ramadan, alongside the largely non-religious nature of the Iranian community here.
"This reflects a broader trend among younger generations in Iran, where there is a growing movement against religious obligations," she explained.
"While Ramadan remains a cultural touchstone for many, the way it is observed — both in Iran and in the diaspora — is shifting with time."
Ramadan through food
In 2019, Gilava Pour, a migrant cook and entrepreneur, transformed her deep passion for Middle Eastern cuisine into Exotic Bazaar.
Gilava Pour. Credit: Exotic Bazaar
Offering more than just convenience, the business shares cherished family recipes, particularly from Pour's native Iran.
She said vivid Ramadan memories from her youth serve as a constant source of inspiration for her culinary creations.
Each morning, I'd be awakened by the comforting sounds of my grandmother preparing Persian black tea, the appetising aroma of sahari being warmed, and the soulful voice of Mohammadreza Shajarian, whose voice was synonymous with Ramadan for all Iranians.Gilava Pour
Ash-e-reshteh, a nourishing, vegetarian Persian noodle soup is a staple during Ramadan and Nowruz (Persian New Year).
Pour said it symbolised warmth and community, featuring aromatic herbs, noodles and slow-cooked legumes, topped with crispy shallots, mint oil and yoghurt.
Traditionally, it was a resourceful way to use leftover herb stew, but now it's easily made with pre-prepared bases or from scratch.
This comforting dish is a fixture at iftar tables and is sure to become a family favourite.
Ash-e-reshteh is a nourishing vegetable soup. Credit: Exotic Bazaar
"Regardless of the season, this soup will be a favourite," she said.
"It’s the perfect wholesome meal to add to your culinary repertoire, particularly as we move into autumn and our bodies crave warmth. I think now is the perfect time to give it a try."
