Nepal will issue Everest permits only to climbers with experience of scaling at least one of the Himalayan nation's 7,000m peaks, according to the draft of a new law aimed at reducing overcrowding and improving safety.
Nepal, which is heavily reliant on climbing, trekking and tourism for foreign exchange, has faced criticism for permitting too many climbers, including inexperienced ones, to try to ascend the 8,849m peak.
This often results in long queues of climbers in the 'death zone', an area below the summit with insufficient natural oxygen for survival.
Overcrowding has been blamed for the high number of deaths on the mountain.
At least 12 climbers died, and another five went missing on Everest's slopes in 2023, when Nepal issued 478 permits. Eight climbers died last year.
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Under the proposed law, an Everest permit would be issued only after a climber provides evidence of having climbed at least one 7,000m mountain in Nepal.
The sardar, or head of local staff, and the mountain guide accompanying climbers must also be Nepali citizens.
The draft law has been registered at the National Assembly, the upper house of parliament, where the ruling alliance holds a majority required to pass the bill.
International expedition operators have urged Nepal to allow any 7,000m peak, not just those in the Himalayan nation, for the Everest permit.
Mount Everest is the world's tallest mountain. Source: Getty / Paula Bronstein
Furtenbach, currently leading an expedition on Everest, said mountain guides from other countries must also be allowed to work on Everest, as there are not enough qualified Nepali mountain guides.
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"It is important that mountain guides have a qualification like IFMGA [International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations], no matter what nationality they are. We do also welcome Nepali IFMGA guides to work in the Alps in Europe," Furtenbach told Reuters.
Garrett Madison of the United States-based Madison Mountaineering also said a 6,500m peak anywhere in the world would be a better idea.
"It's too difficult to find a reasonable 7,000m-plus peak in Nepal," Madison said.
There are more than 400 mountain peaks in Nepal that are open to expeditions — of them, 74 are higher than 7,000m, according to tourism department data.
However, not many of those peaks are popular among climbers, hiking officials said.
Tashi Lakpa Sherpa of the 14 Peaks Expedition, a major expedition organising company in Nepal, said: "Only a few of the 7,000m mountains attract climbers."
He has climbed Everest, known officially and locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal or Qomolangma in Tibet, eight times.
