Smoke from this summer's bushfires has impacted Australia's wines

After a summer of bushfires, difficult decisions are now being made about whether or not to harvest grapes which have been exposed to smoke, due to the effect it can have on the quality of the wine.

Stuart Hordern

Stuart Hordern says harvest time can be stressful anyway, and now they're dealing with smoke taint. Source: SBS News

The Hunter Valley is famous for its wine, but like many communities across Australia, the region north of Sydney felt the impact of this summer's bushfires. 

Most vineyards in the region weren't under the direct threat of flames but the smoke from nearby bushfires was still a huge concern for winemakers, including Brokenwood Wines' Stuart Hordern.

"We're down 30 to 40 per cent on yield just due to the drought and probably an additional 30 per cent due to the effects of smoke," Mr Hordern told SBS News.

“So that's resulted in obviously decreased yields, but also vineyards we've been unable to harvest due to the effects of smoke."

When vineyards are exposed to smoke it can result in wines with burnt or ashy characters.
Mr Hordern said Brokenwood Wines has been working with experts to test its grapes for smoke taint and is also using sensory analysis to determine viability.

"I think there's a real need for further research into smoke taint. To give you an idea, it really was unheard of prior to 2003 as a problem, so it's something that we are really only getting into now.” 

One of the Hunter region's biggest producers, Tyrrell's Wines, has said the drought and smoke will bring their grape crush 80 per cent below normal.

Mr Hordern said it is imperative broad generalisations aren't made about the 2020 vintage though and that grape growers - some who've lost their entire year's income - remain front of mind.

"I think one of the important things for this year is that there will be some outstanding wines made from the 2020 vintage, there just won't be a lot of them."

Further impact on industry

The impact of extreme weather is being felt in wine regions across the country and the industry is now bracing for another hit due to tour group bookings being cancelled in light of the coronavirus outbreak.

The Hunter Valley Wine and Tourism Association said the local economy is losing close to $15 million a month in tourism revenue, including accommodation services, restaurants and conference bookings as people cancel their travel plans.

"There's just that real sense of uncertainty and people don't want to put people at risk. Conferences and events will be really hard hit but we will all feel the effects of not having the international tourists coming in,” the association’s president Christina Tulloch said. 

And it's not just winemakers feeling the pressure of the difficult weather and cancellations.

Hunter Valley gift shop The Twig will be shutting for good at the end of April.
Zoe Pritchard owns 'The Twig,' but has to close her store in April.
Zoe Pritchard is closing her business in April. Source: SBS
Owner Zoe Pritchard said the lack of foot traffic, combined with rental costs, means the business is no longer sustainable.

"Support your local independent retailers for sure, it's very necessary if you want to see small independent shops continuing,” she said. 


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3 min read
Published 29 February 2020 7:16am
Updated 29 February 2020 1:46pm
By Hannah Sinclair


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