Two West Australian distilleries have publicly apologised after using elements of a sacred native plant in their alcoholic products.
Moodjar Tree, commonly known as WA Christmas Tree, is sacred to Noongar People. However, parts of the plant are used to infuse alcohol products produced by SouWester Spirits and West Winds Gin.
The situation has raised questions about the need for brands to properly engage and consult with Aboriginal people when incorporating native botanicals.
Ballardong Wadjuk Noongar woman Esther McDowell Kickett, who first called out the brands on social media, said that decisions to exclude the voices and knowledge of Noongar people around Moodjar, is an “injustice”.
"You can't have our food, and our stories and our culture without us . . . We need to be included in conversations right from the very beginning until the very end,” she said.
"We've had the longest relationships with these plants, we know them inside out. We should be the spokespeople for them. By not including us in those conversations you're not only doing us an injustice but you're doing those plants and our kin an injustice.”
Margaret River distillery SouWester Spirits uses Moodjar flowers in its 'Sunset Gin' and was the first business to “infuse” the flower into alcohol.
SouWester Spirits Gin infused with Moodjar Flower. Source: SouWester Spirits Instagram
West Winds Gins used Moodjar seeds in its 'Christmas Gin'.
Ms McDowell Kickett said she was offended by both the use of Moodjar in alcohol, and its misidentification as bush tucker.
"Incorporating something that they've labelled as bush tucker, which it isn't - into the very poison, the very weapon, the very tool that was used and is continually used to separate and destroy Aboriginal communities is heartbreaking,” she said.
On Monday, SouWester Spirits and West Winds Gin released statements addressing their use of Moodjar.
The West Winds Gin agreed to cease further production of any product containing the plant.
“We want to work hard to acknowledge and respect the Country we work on and will continue to educate the West Winds Gin team about Indigenous culture and Lore,” they wrote.
Ms McDowell Kickett told NITV News whilst she felt West Winds Gins apologised “the right way”, she couldn’t’ say the same for SouWester Spirits.
“They fact they wouldn't even address it by its Noongar name tells me enough, and the fact we were left out of the conversation from start to finish tells me enough,” she said.
In their statement, SouWester Spirits said that they acknowledged the use of Moodjar had “upset some people on social media platforms”.
“We would like to take this opportunity to advise that we sought legal advice and consulted with the Department of Environment Protection. We also researched the Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999, to ensure this tree was not listed on the threatened flora of Australia,” they wrote.
The company outlined their harvesting process, explaining that no living tree is “touched or interrupted” and only revived dying blossoms are infused into alcoholic drinks.
SouWester Spirits’ decision to only engage with the Department of Environment Protection has added to the backlash.
Wadandi Cultural Custodian Iszaac Webb told NITV News, the difference came down to respecting both law, and Lore.
"There may be a process, and you've done it step by step, but that's law. That's a law system, it isn't Lore,” he said.
"As Aboriginal people, we know when we interact with the land that we're a part of, our actions have consequences. With every action there is a reaction.”
Mr Webb explained the deep significance of Moodjar tree in Noongar culture.
"Moodja Tree is really special to our people because it represents the spirits of people who have passed. It is a gateway for the spirits going to our resting place,” Mr Webb explained.
"Moodja tree holds onto spirit, the flowers on the branches represent spirits sitting on the branches. That is why the flowers are so striking and stand up on the branch.”
Mr Webb said consequences of intentionally harming Moodjar trees are severe.
Moodjar Tree, otherwise known as WA Christmas Tree. Source: Kwongan Foundation Facebook
"For us, to intentionally hurt the tree, you are intentionally bringing sad and sorry time to your family - to make your family sick - if it's a non-Indigenous person, it can harm community as well,” Mr Webb said.
“As Traditional Custodians, it's our birthright to make sure Country is respected, so harming Moodjar puts both their family and our family in harm’s way.”
Mr Webb said that the need to consult with Aboriginal people on the use of botanicals came down to safety.
"They need to seek out the information out more before they go ahead with things like this. You don't go ahead and use a product without knowing if it's culturally okay. We want to keep everyone on Country safe,” he said.
Both Mr Webb and his father, respected Wadandi Pibulmun Yunungjarlu Elder Dr Wayne Webb dedicate much of their time to cultural education in the Margaret River region.
"We try to educate everyone about culture down here and have everyone working together and moving together. We try but some don't want to be involved,” said Dr Webb.
